目前分類:衝浪的故事 Surfing Story (62)

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Good morning everyone!!

有時候,衝浪不只是衝浪,而是,被浪衝~~

我說小幫手曼文啊,妳說是不是啊~~??XDDD

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小幫手曼文,妳真是條美人魚

昨天早上小幫手們衝浪去,看到照片笑一跳,喲~~敢情那熱舞教學影片裡又扭又抖的曼文,這會竟變身為風情萬種的衝浪美人魚???

慢慢欣賞,等下再讓大家看看慢慢來兩大小幫手的浪板英姿!!!!

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又一部衝浪電影來了!!

但這部沒有妙齡少女,有沒有性感肌肉男,只有一個單親中年媽媽和一個想掙脫老母控制,只想追求自己衝浪人生的青少年。

喔,當然免不了還是要有好萊塢帥哥Luke Wulson(也算是不錯的菜啦)

看完兩分多鐘的預告片,身為中年老母的凱特 (其實還有20年才會到中年啦,咳咳) 熱血沸騰! 只想馬上抓起板子跳下海裡和我那兩個孩子一起衝浪去!!

對於有男生的媽媽來說,會煮菜,會做蛋糕當然很令他們喜愛,但如果有一個會衝浪(即時只能站上板子幾秒鐘),還會手倒立的媽媽,絕對會讓他們更崇拜! (咳咳,不就是在說自己? 好意思嗎 XD)

衝浪時代愈來愈火熱,媽媽要了解男孩子,可以和他們試著玩在一起 !

當然,身為大男孩的馬克看到這部預告後,第一句話是:~~她跳起來太慢了吧~~~~最後看完後,給了我一個白眼說:好無聊啊~~只是浪漫片!!!

~~~你們男生不懂啦!!!!

女孩們,媽媽們,讓我們一起來看這部片,然後一起來當個帥氣勇敢的衝浪大女孩吧!! 吆呼~~~~~~

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVU2RIOgSJg

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就算一個人來也不要怕寂寞,慢慢來小幫手,陪你一起玩海上衝浪樂園~!!

這幾天都有衝浪課,但都是一些 "就算只有一個人我也要勇敢往前衝 " 的狂熱分子!

為了讓這些第一次衝浪的朋友不要有被馬克緊迫盯人,操累到雙手不舉,雙腳鐵掉的慘狀,也為了讓他們感受到衝浪即使沒站起來,也是有非常多樂趣的感受,我們總會派出我們的小幫手,陪這些新手朋友一起下海去尖叫!

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尋找馬克專用衝浪大助手! <換宿+換衝浪+換人生精彩經驗!>2015年全年都需要~~!!

 

今年開始,慢慢來CEO馬克大總裁 即將大顯身手,大幹一場從即刻起已天天展開瘋狂忙碌卻又興奮無比的老屋翻新工匠 + 有機小農手 + 衝浪教學一整年!!

位在南昌街的慢慢來,在馬克凱特和拉拉的用心照顧下,以及大家的支持愛護下,已經慢慢地愈來愈穩定( 也太容易滿足了 XD ),終於勇奪今年的奧斯卡金像獎………(! 回神! !!)喔,是慢慢來終於可以有穩定的入住旅人,讓我們可以開啟另一個提供旅人們共多樣的餐點,以及更舒適地練習瑜珈的室內空間了! 吆呼~~~~!!!


但是,秉持一貫手作風格的慢慢來CEO馬克大人,再怎麼有分身術,也無法一個人照顧三件大事,要不然,只怕凱特要天天燉補藥酒,坐在浴缸旁放熱水癡癡等他回家,才能在馬克衝刺事業之餘,還能保持幸福完整的一個家啊~~(音樂起:孤夜無伴守燈下,冷風對面吹~~~~~)

 

所以,為了凱特的幸福 (??),喔,是為了讓慢慢來的新計畫能更有效率的產出,讓衝浪的人可以早日有更舒服的休息據點,讓喜愛美食的慢慢來旅人有更棒的用餐環境,讓慢慢來瑜珈有更舒適的空間, 於是我們現在需要【馬克專用大助手】,和我們一起共同打拼創造2015興奮的新計畫!

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Surfing Helper Wanted for March 2015.

We are looking for someone who can help out with our surfing classes From March and also help Mark work on the land and in doing work on the guest house in Taitung City.  Details of the work are roughly as follows:

Surfing:

Helping out with surfing classes, including but not limited to:

l   Organizing boards and surfing gear before class;

l   Washing down boards and surf gear after class;

l   Assisting with watching guests in the water as directed by Mark.

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為了小幫手而開的這堂課,竟也湊成了帥哥美女團~~~

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寒流來了還是要下水!!!!

好吧,稱呼這群對衝浪充滿熱情的朋友為瘋子實在很不禮貌,雖然報名時天氣還不冷,但前兩天已經知道有寒流了,卻沒有人打退堂鼓!!!

瘋子啊~~~啊不是,是勇士啊勇士~~!!!!!

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11/15~~11/18號,有三個女生分別參加了三天兩夜的瑜珈+衝浪課程,且有志一同地說要天天衝浪!

雖然她們興致高昂,但本著良心事業的精神,我們還是建議這些女孩們,可在連續兩天上課後,我們建議他們11/17休息一天,可以專心上陰瑜珈和泡溫泉,11/18才有體力再繼續衝。(秋冬浪和夏天小浪可是不同的啊)

所以,有興趣和她們一起衝浪,享受併團的經濟價格的朋友,趕快把握這個能認識新朋友,且一起體驗沙灘與戶外瑜珈+衝浪課程的好機會喔。

有興趣朋友請私訊或打0978-919033詢問喔,謝謝^^

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A beautiful way to start our beautiful day!

Good morning~~yoga & surfing girls!!

Oops,there is a boy too,haha.

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昨天有三位專程前來衝浪而入住慢慢來的朋友,一位是去年來衝過浪然後就回去當兵,今年第一次放假就馬上衝過來要衝浪的新加坡男孩,一位是誤闖入我們民宿才知道曾經是我家小孩游泳教練的蜜蜂老師,一位是早上曬得全身通紅然後一聽到隔天可以開課,沒有猶豫地馬上說要上的台北女孩。

這周原本都停課的,但有這三位專程來衝浪的朋友,馬克也很沒原則地說好啊,那就上課吧。然後還又邀請了本週的地下管家-----桌遊店長胖胖先生一起去海邊看美景

可憐的胖胖店長,原本可以好好睡個飽,卻沒想到因為哪克熱情邀約,然後小幫手阿吵也要去衝浪,凱特今天又要送小孩上學,所以就沒人可以幫忙照相;然後阿吵就用她的阿吵神功吵得善良的胖胖店長只好說他去幫忙拍照,好讓阿吵可以專心去被浪打。

於是,以下照片,就是由原本要來修生養性躲人群,卻沒想到天天都遇到一群吵吵鬧鬧的人,然後自己的本性也露出,雖沒夜夜笙歌,但也夜夜夜吵,不是民宿玩桌遊,就是散步去夜遊,忙很大的桌遊店長胖胖所拍攝。

看照片,昨天的浪真的如馬克說的,浪很大;但是照片中的他們,卻每個都可以站在浪板上!而且都被胖胖店長給抓住了那一瞬間,將他們的半秒化為了永恆!! XDDD

忠勝~~蜜蜂~~winwin~~阿吵~~~,你們可要好好謝謝胖胖店長,不然誰會相信浪那麼大的昨天,你們四個竟然這麼棒,真的衝的那麼好!!!!
 
 
 
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【慢慢來Long Stay計畫】 之 一年四季一直都有的 [ 住滿七夜送一堂衝浪課 ] ,原來沒有多少人知道??

這幾天才發現,原來沒有很多人知道,慢慢來一直都有[ 連續住滿七夜送一堂衝浪課 ] 的好康優惠。

是的,慢慢來從去年開幕就一直有這優惠,第一位使用過這項福利的聰明朋友是淇淇,一個可愛的護專學生;去年她在淡季和朋友來的時候,整間慢慢來應該還是空盪盪的,沒有太多旅人,但好處是可以在台東慢慢晃,並讓馬克慢慢指導她的衝浪。

但她今年八月底第三度再來,已經是熱鬧滾滾,有許多可以一起去衝浪的朋友,也有許多的課程可以選擇。這當中淇淇也在我們去非洲時,又來了一次! 只是那次沒有住七天,因為她知道我們不在台東,就算住上七十天大概也只能送臭豆腐了XD。

所以,淡淡的11月和12月就要到了, 有年假還沒休、出國經費短缺、很想離開陰雨連綿的北部、想去個安靜的地方散心,或是純粹只想過著一種"住遊" 生活的朋友,可以考慮到慢慢來住上七天七夜喔。

在這裡不僅有舒適的小床可窩上一整天,很多書可以看,很多桌遊可以玩,很多DVD可以看,有小酒館,還有經濟實惠又舒服的瑜珈課可以上,當然還有山有水有溫泉有誠品有夜市,漂亮的大自然可晃,有愜意的鐵花村可聽歌,每天還都會有熱情活潑又貼心的小幫手陪你聊天或一起切磋廚藝(吧?XD),更可以體驗一堂價值2000元的免費衝浪課~~~~!!!

你們說,不到慢慢來住上個七天七夜,怎麼對得起自己,又怎麼敢說你來過台東呢?!!!!(咦?這句話怎麼那麼熟??XDDDD)
 
 
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有人擔心現在下水衝浪會很冷。其實我們到現在都還在穿背心短褲逛大街啊~~。跟北部的朋友報告,台東現在的天氣,除了早晚很涼爽,一旦太陽出來後,全身還是會從溫暖到發熱。

那海水呢?衝浪要穿防寒衣了嗎?

嗯,有時候,照片可以說明一切。

這是我們10月18日瑜珈衝浪課程的衝浪課實景。

左一是我們的小幫手,平常冷靜理智的她,卻有著嚇了我一跳的粉紅可愛的內在;右一是被三天兩夜課程揪團加入的朋友,粉藍色的比基尼,讓那天的海面失色不少;左二是一詢問就立馬下訂瑜珈衝浪課程的半馬小姐(她的故事之後慢慢說),沒有穿出小可愛,她說是因為怕大家把目光都放在她身上;右二那位大概是全世界最幸運也最幸福的郵差先生了,他穿什麼不重要,他把握住了命運安排的勇氣才有這福氣佔上畫面的一角,這樣的旅行才是真勵志。

台東現在很冷嗎?衝浪要穿什麼?照片說明了一切。而照片之後的故事,我們過幾天慢慢說。

然後,還是要幫俊秀又多話(XD)的香香帥哥,以及香港來的漂亮女孩(我想一定是)努力揪個團! 10/26~10/29,初階衝浪班,等你來遇見命運的驚喜安排!!(郵差先生,你說你說,是不是,是不是啊~~~XDDD)

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昨天張震嶽的FB發了一篇文(見連結),就有朋友善意轉發給我們要我們注意。我當然把這事情說給馬克聽。聽完,他馬上說那一定是衝浪的技術不對;比較大的原因是學習如何站起來的姿勢有問題,才會引發這受傷事件。

馬克寫的原文很長,我先把它整篇放上來,有些朋友可以先看,然後我會再翻譯成中文放上來。請放心,因為這是挺重要的事情,馬克又寫的那麼用心,所以這篇翻譯我不會一放就是三百年。


【Keeping Safe and Healthy in the Water: Avoiding Surfer’s Myelopathy】-----By Mark

Recently I heard of a case of a condition called Surfer’s Myelopathy (SM) took place in Taiwan to a lady who was taking a beginners lesson. The injury left the woman with severe spinal injuries that took years to recover from. I was shocked, as while I have suffered and witnessed plenty of injuries and accidents in my 25 years of surfing (mostly caused by people hitting the reef) I have never heard of someone being left unable to walk after a simple surfing lesson. I have done a little research to try to understand the condition a little better to make sure that we can minimise the risk for our students. Below I set out a litle about what I found out on the rare condition, and also my own thoughts on how to lower the risk of such an injury or any other injury for that matter while in the water. 

What is Surfer’s Myleopathy?

Surfer's myelopathy (SM) is a rare nontraumati paraplegia. It is a spinal cord injury caused by hyperextension of the back. When the back is hyperextended, a blood vessel leading to the spine can become kinked, depriving the spinal cord of oxygen. For this reason, it is sometimes referred to as "a stroke of the spinal cord. To simplify, it is a rare injury, not caused by a trauma (such as a fall) which damages the spinal cord and can leave a person potentialy paralised from the waist down. It is considered the cause is from over extending the back, or from having the back over extended (over arched) from the surfing posture.


Who is at risk? 

Learners: The key risk factor seems to be inexperience as almost all persons afflicted were first-time surfers. A secondary risk factor seems to be fitness, in that people who are more sedentary with less developed muscles are more at risk as is dehydration (not drinking enough water). 


What are the risks

Putting the danger in perspective, as the ASM website acknowledges, you have more risk of being attacked by a shark in the water than from getting SM. However, the risk while small is real, so if you are a first time surfer its worth to look at the tips below to minimise the risk of any injury.

Avoiding SM

The ASM website sets out the following Tips for First Time Surfers to avoid SM: 
S – Sit on your board while waiting for the waves.
P – Pace your time in the water. Limit it to 30 minutes.
I – Insist on a knowledgable surfing instructor.
N – Notice signs of pain and discomfort in your back.
E – Exit the water and seek immediate medical attention if you experience pain or weakness.

I would add to this the following simple observations:

Walking out to the waves is better than paddling out and sitting on your board: 

For first time surfers, in my opinion there is no need to paddle out or be in water at a depth where you can’t touch the ground. Why? The reason is simple, don’t waste your energy, and catch more waves. The goal in the first stage of surfing is to master the art of the paddle and the “pop up”, which is the action in which surfers use one motion to stand up on their surfboard. 

The key to mastering both of these quicker is simple – catch more waves. Big, small, white water, its all the same at this point. The way we run lessons is students walk with their own boards into the water out to the point where they are comfortable, then they turn their boards around and jump on and start paddling in to catch a wave. Thus there is no need to spend a prolonged time on your board at this stage lying down with your back arched in the paddling position. Its better to use your leg muscles to get your self out back, and then save your back for paddling in to catch waves. Otherwise you waste too much time and too much energy trying to paddle out back and lying in water that’s too deep. 

This technique will decrease the potential for SM as well as any other more normal strains from putting too much strain on the back. As you get better and more experienced and master the pop up, then you can start to paddle out and catch waves further out back. By that time your body and muscles will be more used to surfing and you are out of the SM high risk group.


Pay attention to your technique

I think this is under emphasised and consider that as almost all the sufferers of SM were first time surfers perhaps poor technique led to them putting an increased level of strain on their lower spines. Surf coaches should spend time and energy trying to install good technique into their students and not just to stand up faster but also to avoid injury. 

The pop up requires a surfer to synchronise the movements of a jump forward (using the lower body) and a push up (using the upper body). It is crucial for injury avoidnce that these two motions are done together, however the difficulty for many first time surfers is that as it’s a new movement they lack the muscle memory to combine the actions together at the start. 

As a result I see a lot of first time students first extending their arms to push themselves up and then jumping forward, basically breaking down the one motion pop up into two separate movements. Some surf schools even teach this as its easier to get students standing this way and it feels safer to some students than the winner takes all pop up at once movement. 

The danger is that breaking down the pop up into separate movements puts a great deal more strain on the lower back and spine than synchronising the movements. When you do the pop up movements together correctly it’s your shoulder, upper back muscles and feet that provide you with your upward and forward momentum together. 

The lower back and spine are basically neutral movers except for your hip twist when in the air. Thus no strain is put on your spine. However, if you first extend your arms, then jump forward, inorder to recreate the same momentum your initial push up would have given you to get your body jumping forward most students over extend their lower back using their hips and lower spine to create that second burst of forward momentum. This action places quite a lot of strain on the lower back and spine and increases the risk of straining or injuring the back. So when you are in the water, make sure you work hard to keep good technique. If you are getting muscle fatigue, take a rest on the beach for bit rather than risk injury through forcing it with poor technique.


Listen to and be patient with your body.

Often the most simple advise is the most effective – that is be realistic and patient with your body and to listen to it. We should all keep in mind the single and only important goal of surfing – fun. There is no need for anyone to push themselves past the point their body condition is in at that moment. So as I tell my students, relax and remember, its not important whether you stand up or not, but only that you have fun. If you have never surfed before and don’t do regular exercise, take it easy. Perhaps the first lesson just learning to paddle and surfing the waves lying down is enough. Its still super fun, and way more fun than straining your back or worse. If you need to take a break, have one, drink plenty of water and don’t pin your own progress to what others do, or your own expectations. If you enjoy what you are doing and progress as fast as your body is comfortable then you will certainly get there in the end. And most importantly you will enjoy the ride along the way which as every surfer knows is the end goal of surfing itself.

So, have fun, listen to your body and stay safe. See you in the ocean.

BTW, for anyone that is interested in reading more about SM please see the resources set out on the surfer’s myleopathy foundation wbsite at http://www.smawareness.org/ 

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很多女生都在問,穿比基尼衝浪不會怕衣服被浪打掉嗎?

關於這個問題,凱特心有餘但料不足 ,實在沒辦法證言回答,故特地請來了比基尼狂野妹來位大家親身示範說明。

而經過兩次狂浪的實驗證明,合身的比基尼,讓妳跳飛上天也不會脫軌飛出;服貼的比基尼,讓妳跳上浪板也不會兩兩分離;吻合的比基尼,讓妳被浪打下海水即使翻了兩翻後,也不會隨著滾滾浪花離妳而去! 

比基尼的強大吸引力,不僅吸海水,也吸眼球;比基尼賦予的女性自信美,不僅讓女孩性感,也散發健康活力的自信感!

看! 我們圖中的狂野妹多奔放又自在,誰能比她更懂綻放青春的權利啊~~~!

雖然!!!!(對,四個驚嘆號! )曾經聽說有人的確有些時候不小心走位了,但大海茫茫,浪頭來時也各自抓,根本沒人有時間會注意妳;如果真有人看到了,那,又如何??

身體是上天賦予每個人的禮物,有人勻稱,有人瘦長或肥壯,有人矯健,有人僵硬,有人健全,有人有缺失,不論哪一種,都是上天賜給我們每個人獨一無二的禮物。

年輕女孩敢於展現身體的健康活力,是一件美好的事;只有當自己喜歡自己的身體,愛護身體,且讓她在充滿正面能量的大自然裡展現最具活力的一面,那就是一種愛自己。

只有當自己懂得欣賞自己,懂得愛自己,才有能量去欣賞別人,愛別人。

比基尼或不比基尼,一點都不重要;性感還是不性感,也不是妳穿的衣服布料的多寡;每一個來衝浪的女孩子,不管是穿短褲包長褲還是比基尼,只要自在,開心,讓身體自然活動於不會有任何評斷力的大自然裡,那就是最棒的自己。

看著圖片中的比基尼妹所呈現的力與美,和八卦雜誌中的麻豆女郎同樣都是少少的幾塊布,但只因比基尼狂野妹完全專心在浪頭,全神貫注在奮力划水與跳起,說真的,她到底是穿了比基尼還是亮片裝或潛水衣,在我眼中一點都沒差別;我看到的,只有一個愛極衝浪的女孩,為了站上浪頭而拼了命的在努力;這份拼搏的堅持,比那兩件小衣更動人。

下次當妳猶豫要不要穿比基尼來衝浪時,可以想想衝浪品牌的影像,那些女孩,漂亮的不是臉蛋或是身上的比基尼,而是她全身散發出的自信魅力!

 

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雨過天大晴。
風起。浪小狂。
七個衝浪少年連續多天來的最後一堂課。
暗忖今年夏天的記憶於他們,是否將如今日浪花,洶湧而美麗。

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無論是否農曆七月,我們始終對有形無形之自然萬物,抱持尊重之心。

馬克的衝浪第一課總是先讓學員認識海洋,認知安全,再來才是盡情去玩。

雖然我們這片海域對初學者的危險不高,但了解海流,學會萬一被帶出去的自救法,仍是玩水的第一準則。

今天農曆十六,漲潮,水很多,浪不錯,不大,但有力; 初學者們個個精神煥發,興奮中夾雜些許緊張,相信又將是美好且充滿能量的一天!

就連被我們綁架不准去當兵的史蒂芬尼.大胖,也在美麗的海洋邊,展示了他充滿力與美的能量。噗。

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 【慢慢來衝浪的故事】之 當16 歲與 61 歲遇上同一片海

有一天,在我們熟悉的那片海上,來了一位16歲少女,和一位61歲大哥。

叫他大哥並不是恭維,而是他姓吳,江湖上大家都叫他吳哥,雖然我知道,你們心裡正在滴咕著他明明就是吳北北。

不過,年輕與否不在身分證上的年紀,而是你對自我的心理認知;如果再嚴苛一點,年輕與否也端視你身體的狀態。

這位61歲的吳哥,是"台北市出去玩戶外生活分享協會"的台柱,有許多親近大自然的活動,都是他在舉辦,每年還帶喜歡大自然與歷史文化的同好去尼泊爾與吳哥窟(ㄟ?他家嗎?)一探究竟。

這次來台東,是幾個出去玩協會的朋友坐火車環島,來到台東時,是扎營在擁有全臺東最美海岸鐵道風景的國小裡(ㄟ~~想知道在哪裡的朋友自己去問他喔,嘿嘿)然後再在烈日下去參加豐年祭,再在烈日中來到了慢慢來。

吳哥常在淨山,那天,他也幫我們一起淨灘。對於我對那些亂丟垃圾而忿恨不平的心,他只是很平靜地跟我說只能盡量撿了,有種老人看淡一切的感覺。(這時候,61歲的智慧感就湧現了)

那天,吳哥告訴我們,他每次看我們FB上一些扛浪板的照片都覺得很不專業,然後他展示了輕鬆扛板法,基本上就是扛床墊的方法。還自己找了美女圖來比較,得意洋洋地告訴各位浪友,衝浪板就要像他這樣扛才省力!(問題是,這位大哥~~~當你穿上比基尼後,大家不會看你怎麼扛,而是你穿什麼啦!!!!)

這位61歲的吳哥,那天並沒有站上浪板。但是,對馬克來說,衝浪最重要的,並不是是否有站上板子去,而是好不好玩。

但對我來說,知道這位吳哥在前一天從露營地來到慢慢來後,就因緊急事件而突然中斷旅程,趕回台南;同行的朋友也因為吳哥離去而開始各自結束接下來的旅程;就在大家準備隔天再衝完一次浪就離開台東後,卻突然接到吳哥電話說:我等下要過去台東了,你們等我,我要跟你們去衝浪!

什麼?! 大前天才從高雄來到台東露營,昨天一到達慢慢來後又衝回台南,結果今天下午又要趕過來台東,準備參加明天的衝浪!!!

這位61歲的老先生,他真的以為他只有16歲耶。

請全體起立掌聲鼓勵鼓勵。

吳哥想要嘗試衝浪的決心與精神,讓很多16歲或26歲的年輕人也望塵莫及,如果你們還知道他是個坐車坐船都會暈,自己開車也會暈,連騎大象都會暈的人,你們就會佩服他決定挑戰可能會暈浪的精神!(後來我才知道,他真的有在衝浪前偷吃暈船藥!!!!!!!)

吳哥~~~衝浪前吃暈船藥這一招,我太佩服你了啦!!!!!XDD

好了,這個61歲的衝浪新手的故事,有沒有讓總是擔心沒衝過浪,或是擔心不會游泳,害怕曬黑或是莫名退縮的人多些嚐試新事物的勇氣?

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【衝浪其實也可以慢慢來】

好吧,其實不是每個人衝浪都會很拼命的。也其實並不是每一場衝浪都要全力以赴的。

有的時候,海實在太美,光線太溫柔,山景太迷人,溫度太宜人,海的律動太醉人,那時你的一切鬥志,都會被那片海給搖動;那時候,你只想靜靜躺在浪板上,享受海水陽光與微風的吹拂;或者,和你的夥伴一起在海水中聊天,甚至可以體會所謂平靜無波的人生哲理。

衝浪有些時候,就像人生的旋律;有大浪來襲,有一波接一波的衝擊,那時就只能猛力前進勇敢面對,然後搭上凶猛無情的推力,往岸邊一衝,落水或站上浪板,都是自己的努力與際遇。

有些時候,遇上無浪亦無波,即使已經全身鬥志上膛,但浪頭不來也是無用武,即使教練努力在推浪,但海洋能量散發出的平和慵懶氣息,卻令人也想只懶懶的享受大海的溫柔。

有時後,隨遇而安,也是衝浪很好的座右銘。有浪衝浪,沒浪,就享受大海賜給你慢慢來的一天。

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